Thursday, January 29, 2009

I've been neglecting the blog. Here's an update:

This morning I ran into two people from Australia outside of our inn, and we all had breakfast together. Later Runo and I went to Ginkaku-Ji Temple, Tetsugaku-no-michi, and Kinkaku-Ji temple. After dinner (donburi) I went to an Onsen and met a local guy from Kyoto. Afterward I met up with Runo again and went back to the inn.
The temples were beautiful--it's amazing how much effort they invest into keeping the grounds. I saw an employee lightly scraping the branches of a bush with a wire brush. If you had to do that for every branch of every tree there, it would take you weeks. They had a team of guys working the grounds.
The first one was elegant and enjoyable to see. They were both set against the mountains, and the paths started up the inclines but stopped, gesturing to the woods beyond. The second location was just as beautiful and more ethereal--it looked like a solid gold pagoda floating on a lake. The only problem was that it was packed with people, literally, hundreds of tourists taking pictures constantly and kids screaming in the background. It limited the serenity of the experience.
Tetsugaku-no-michi (philosophers path) was incredible, and there weren't any tourists there. It's a trail next to a river which is set in the middle of a residential neighborhood. Even in the winter it was gorgeous; I can't imagine how beautiful it would look in the spring, summer, or fall. It was easily one of the most beautiful places I've ever been, and again, this was during the ugliest time of the year. Growing up near there would provide such a rich source of imagination.
For dinner we went to this random café near the onsen and both got donburi. Mine was with avocado, tomato, and egg. It was one of the better things I've had here.
The best part of the day was the onsen. There were indoor baths, which were cool, but the better area was outside, with the rocks and trees rising up next to the tubs. A cascade of fresh water fell off the rocks into the cold pool, and people were drinking it, so I joined in, and it was super refreshing.

Prior days: since it's been so long since I've posted, I have a lot to summarize and I might repeat myself from earlier since I can't remember what I've said and what I haven't said:

* They have these things here called "manga kissa", which is a version of an internet café. The set up is mind-blowing. You buy a ticket at the vending machine for the amount of time you want (Japanese love vending machines), and then you select the type of booth you want. There are some with recliners, some with cots, but they all have computers. Then you are invited to get a drink (they're free and unlimited, and by drink I mean coffee, tea, or soft-drink), and then they show you to your booth. It's sort of like a cubicle with a really comfortable chair and in a peaceful environment. Outside the cubicle are rows upon rows of manga. The only sounds are the clacking of keys from neighboring cubicles and the boiling of water, which you can use for instant ramen. There's even a shower there. Apparently people use them as hotels all the time. So basically it's a combination of a hotel, library, newsstand, and coffee shop all at the same time.

* I went out for karaoke with my classmates and the crew from Sekisui house in Tokyo, and we had a blast. It was sort of awkward at first, but Kuzu started us off with the theme from Totoro, then the drinks came, and it just got better and better. It seemed like we were there for at least 2 hours singing. Afterward we hung out at the hotel, and people that shall not be named got a little out of hand, including ties on heads and crazy back rubs.

* The last night in Tokyo was one of the best nights I've had in a long time. Everyone, including some people from prof. Shun's Venice trip, went to a restaurant in Shibuya, ate several rounds of appetizer-type food, and enjoyed unlimited drinks for 2 hours. Right before the cut-off our table wanted to get more sake, so we put in another order with the waitress. She asked how many we wanted, thinking we'd say 1, maybe 2, and someone shouted out 5, and they actually brought it, so hell yeah. I had some fried prawn and anchovies in addition to the normal meal. They were good, but as with all the fish I've had on this trip, I won't feel deprived when I go back to total vegetarianism. After we were done, we took cabs back to Akasaka, went to another bar, and then headed home. That night I invited many people to Philadelphia, including our cab driver.

* I finally got to go to Akihabara after dreaming of that place since middle school. It was cool, but if it weren't for its sentimental status, it wouldn't be a big deal. One of the weirder things there was this 5 story building entirely dedicated to manga, but 2 of the 5 were for "womens' manga", and another 1 of the 5 was for a "cosplay kissa". Womens' manga was like a cartoon porno version of the trashy romance novels they sell in grocery stores, and the cosplay kissa was a café where the waitresses dress up like animé characters, which in our case meant girls in French maid outfits and cat ears. It was kind of weird. Unfortunately they wouldn't let us take pictures, and Kazu told me people have been arrested for taking voyeur-style pictures there.

* I learned about tanuki, one of the top 5 coolest things about Japan. They are forest creatures that are a cross between a raccoon and a dog. In myth, the males can enlarge their testicles to fill a room the size of 8 tatami mats and crush its victims. Classical Japanese art also depicts tanukis sleeping on their balls and bashing people with them. Another ability they supposedly have is the ability to turn into humans. Speaking about their balls again, they are said to be made of gold, and businesses often have tanuki statues outside the entrance (and yes, the statues have giant balls on them). Aside from the myths, they actually exist in real life and there's a Youtube video with some random guy that tried to domesticate one.

* The studio started out well and apparently the people from Sekisui House were pleased, so thumbs up all around. We basically did site visits and mini-studios capped by a mid-review and a final review. I'm psyched to get back and continue working on it.

* We got to go to the Sekisui House office in Tokyo, and it was pretty insane. Corporate hierarchy is rigid and formality is strict. Decisions take a long time to be made, and most things are accompanied by symbolic rituals. There was one really old guy, who seemed like a high ranking member of the company, that just sat around cracking up during the meeting. He was awesome. We each gave an introduction and had it translated, and he'd laugh both during the English part and for the Japanese translation. After the presentations and introductions, they had a lovely reception for us in a building that looked like a British mansion. The food was top notch and the company was great. The laughing elder was present and in fine form. He told me a long story in broken English, and at one point he stopped abruptly to laugh wildly, followed by an equally abrupt departure. I kind of wish I was that guy.

* The Shinkansen was cool, though getting from Akasaka to the train platform involved long subway tunnel walks, confusing transfers, and just a generally confusing experience. The countryside between Tokyo and Kyoto is lush and dramatic. We passed mountains (including Mt. Fuji), the ocean, fields, and towns. Backpacking this country in the summer with some knowledge of the language would be such a treat.

* Kyoto seems cool so far. Right off the bat we got lost near the inn, and the hospitality people showed us was amazing. We asked a random guy where the inn was, and even though he didn't know, he said he'd walk with us until we found it. He took us into a residential area and asked this lady getting on her bike. She said she didn't know and rolled away. Next he asked this old lady, and she stood there trying to think of whether or not she'd heard of it. Then, the lady on the bike came back and said she had just found it and gave us directions over there. Next, the original guy walked us over there, and we finally found it. The amazing thing was that everyone in the neighborhood came out and seemed so eager to help us.

* Urban design/architecture wise, Kyoto is interesting. Compared to Tokyo, the buildings are smaller, the streets are smaller, and it's mostly dark, even on the main streets. At first it comes off as looking dingy and anti-climatic. But then, you start to notice these brilliant interior spaces in the blocks and in random spots, and the whole thing comes alive. The philosophers walk was amazingly beautiful, as were the temples. The people are very accommodating and friendly, and the food and culture seems excellent. Overall, so far, I'm just as impressed with Kyoto as I am with Tokyo.